It is jumper-selectable in either Smartmouse or Phoenix Mode (Reset active hi or low) and Jumper selectable for 3.57 and 6 MH The "original" Smartmouse gets its power out of the serial port of the Hostcomputer - in this design this "feature" is not implemented because the Hostcomputer can only deliver about 15 mA to the Programmer. This is not enough for older Smartcards. So this design uses an 9V Alkaline Battery 6LR61.
To make this design cheap there are no gimmicks like flashing diodes or expensive connectors and switches. You have to solder the 9 or 25 pin serial cable directly the corresponding pads of the PCB.
There is an new/other Layout included. It has some 100R Resistors in
the connections to the smartcard, to limit the current in the case
of malfunction of the software. Furthermore the Layout is a litte more
easier to build at home because the distance between the tracks is
All the following description is also usable for the new layout. Some
changes in the partvalues have to be taken directly out of the Top1.gif.
The LEDs schould be LowPower....
SIP1 is for selecting the Clockrate 3.57 or 6MHz
Shorting pin 1 + 2 -> 3.57 MHz
Shorting pin 2 + 3 -> 6 MHz
SIP2 is for selecting the type of mode (Smartmouse or Phoenix)
Shorting pin 1 + 2 -> Smartmouse
Shorting pin 2 + 3 -> Phoenix
SIP3 is a Jumperblock which is used as a "Switch" to turn the Battery
on an off - or as the connector for an external DC-powersupply.
Shorting pin 1+2 -> Power off
Shorting pin 2+3 -> Power on
Without Jumper you can connect an external DC-Powersupply to this Header:
Pin1 -> GND
Pin2 -> 9 to 15 Vdc
Pin3 -> left open
SIP3 is΄nt really a Jumperblock it is the connection to the serial
Port of the Hostcomputer.
SIP4 9Pin SubD Serial port cable
Pin1 -> Pin 5
Pin2 -> Pin 2
Pin3 -> Pin 3
Pin4 -> Pin 1
Pin5 -> Pin 7
BT1 9V Block Alkaline
C1 22pF RM 5 Keramik
C2 22pF RM 5 Keramik
C3 22pF RM 5 Keramik
C4 22pF RM 5 Keramik
C5 100nF RM 5 KDPU
C6 100nF RM 5 KDPU
C7 1uF RM 2.5 Tantal
C8 1uF RM 2.5 Tantal
C9 1uF RM 2.5 Tantal
C10 1uF RM 2.5 Tantal
C11 1u RM 2.5 Tantal
C12 100nF RM 5 KDPU
C13 100nF RM 5 KDPU
C14 47pF RM 5 Keramik
C15 1uF RM 2.5 Tantal
D1 BAT41 or BAT48 Shottky!!
LD1 LED 3mm red Low Power
R1 1M RM 5 Bauform 02/04 1/10W
R2 2K2 RM 5 Bauform 02/04 1/10W
R3 1M RM 5 Bauform 02/04 1/10W
R4 2K2 RM 5 Bauform 02/04 1/10W
R5 2K2 RM 5 Bauform 02/04 1/10W
R6 2K2 RM 5 Bauform 02/04 1/10W
R7 10K RM 5 Bauform 02/04 1/10W
SC1 Smartcard Adapter Amphenol Switch opens when Card is inserted!
SIP1 Jumperblock 3Pin
SIP2 Jumperblock 3Pin
SIP3 Jumperblock 3Pin
SIP4 Jumperblock 5Pin
U2 MAX 232
X1 3.57MHz HC18/U
X2 6MHz HC18/U
All Rs are 1/10W 4mm for laying mount or 1/4 W for standing mount.
It is very important for this design to use a Shottky diode for D1.
Any other type will definitely NOT work!
Look for the right polarity of the tantalum condensators! The
MAX232 includes a so called chargepump and generates positive an
negative Voltages respect to ground. So it is possible that the
positive pole of an condensator is connected to ground - this is
For Mounting the Battery and fasten the serial cabel drill bigger
holes at the corresponding points and use cablestrips.
The enclosed Tiff΄s have a resolution of 400 dpi.
Das Layout5 ist um folgende Bauteile erweitert
C 1uF Elko
Taster 1 x UM
Der Taster muss in Ruhestellung Masse Stromversorgung mit Masse Board verbinden, gedrόckter Position PIN3 NE555 MIT Masse Board.
Durch diese einfache Erweiterung kφnnen Karten genullt bzw. reanimiert werden ohne das raus-rein Spiel, welches die Karte unnόtz strapaziert.