As readers will know, there are already several power amplifier projects, two using IC power amps (aka power opamps). Both have been popular, and this project is not designed to replace either of them. However, it is significantly smaller than the others, so it makes building a multiple amp unit somewhat easier because the space demand is much lower. It's quite simple to include 4 amps (two boards) into a small space, but be aware that good heatsinking is essential if you expect to run these amps at significant power levels.
Photo of Completed P127 Board
The TDA7293 IC uses a MOSFET power stage, where the others featured use bipolar transistors. The main benefit of the MOSFET stage is that it doesn't need such radical protection circuitry as a bipolar stage, so unpleasant protection circuit artefacts are eliminated. There are no apparent downsides to the TDA7293, although it was found that one batch required a much higher voltage on the Standby and Mute pins than specified, or the amps would not work. This is not a limitation, since both are tied to the positive supply rail and are therefore disabled.
This particular project has been planned for a long time, but for some reason I never got around to completing the board or the project description. This is now rectified, and it's ready to "rock and roll". The board is very small - only 77 x 31mm, so getting it into tight spaces is easy ... provided adequate heatsinking is available of course.
The TDA7293 has a bewildering number of options, even allowing you to add a second power stage (in another IC) in parallel with the main one. This improves power into low impedance loads, but is a rather expensive way to get a relatively small power increase. It also features muting and standby functions, although I've elected not to use these.
The schematic is shown in Figure 1, and is based on the PCB version. All unnecessary functions have been disabled, so it functions as a perfectly normal power amplifier. While the board is designed to take two TDA7293 ICs, it can naturally be operated with only one, and the PCB is small enough so that this is not an inconvenience. A LED is included to indicate that power is available, and because of the low current this will typically be a high brightness type.
Figure 1 - Schematic of Power Amplifier (One Channel Shown)
The IC has been shown in the same format that's shown in the data sheet, but has been cleaned up for publication here. Since there are two amps on the board, there are two of most of the things shown, other than the power supply bypass caps and LED "Power Good" indicator. These ICs are extremely reliable (as are most power amp ICs), and to reduce the PCB size as much as possible, fuse clips and fuses have not been included. Instead, there are fusible tracks on the board that will fail if there is a catastrophic fault. While this is not an extremely reliable fuse, the purpose is to prevent power transformer failure, not to protect the amplifiers or PCB.
I normally use a gain of 23 (27dB) for all amplifiers, and the TDA7293 is specified for a minimum gain of 26dB, below which it may oscillate. Although this is only a small margin, tests so far indicate that the amp is completely stable. If you wish, you may increase the gain to 28 (29dB) to give a bit more safety margin. To do this, just change the input and feedback resistors (R3A/B and R4A/B) from 22k to 27k.
The circuit is conventional, and is very simple because all additional internal functions are unused. The LED is optional, and if you don't think you'll need it, it may be omitted, along with series resistor R3. All connections can be made with plugs and sockets, or hard wired. In most cases, I expect that hard wiring will be the most common, as the connectors are a pain to wire, and add unnecessary cost as well as reduce reliability.
The TDA7293 specifications might lead you to believe that it can use supply voltages of up to ±50V. With zero input signal (and therefore no output) it might, but I don't recommend anything greater than ±35V if 4 ohm loads are expected, although ±42V will be fine if you can provide good heatsinking. In general, the lower supply voltage is more than acceptable for 99% of all applications, and higher voltages should not be used unless there is no choice. Naturally, if you can afford to lose a few ICs to experiments, then go for the 42V supplies (obtained from a 30+30V transformer).
This amp can also be bridged, using the Project 87 balanced transmitter board. You can expect about 150W into 8 ohms from a +/-35V supply. It cannot be bridged into 4 ohms, as the effective impedance on each amplifier is too low.
Because of the pin spacings, these ICs are extremely awkward to use without a PCB. Consequently, I recommend that you use the ESP board because it makes building the amplifier very simple. The PCBs are double sided with plated-through holes, so are very unforgiving of mistakes unless you have a good solder sucker. The best way to remove parts from a double sided board is to cut the pins off the component, then remove each pin fragment individually. This is obviously not something you'd wish to do if a power amp IC were installed incorrectly, since it will be unusable afterwards.
Figure 2 - TDA7293V Pinouts
The diagram above shows the pinouts for the TDA7293V (the "V" means vertical mounting). Soldering the ICs must be left until last. Mount the ICs on your heatsink temporarily, and slide the PCB over the pins. Make sure that all pins go through their holes, and that there is no strain on the ICs that may try to left the edge off the heatsink. When ICs and PCB are straight and aligned, carefully solder at least 4 pins on each IC to hold them in place. The remaining pins can then be soldered. Remember, if you mess up the alignment at this point in construction, it can be extremely difficult to fix, so take your time to ensure there are no mistakes.
This amplifier must not be connected to a preamp that does not have an output coupling capacitor. Even though there is a cap in the feedback circuit, it can still pass DC because there is no input cap on the PCB. I normally include an input cap, but the goal of this board was to allow it to fit into the smallest space possible, and the available board space is not enough to include another capacitor. A volume control (typically 10k log/ audio taper) may be connected in the input circuit if desired.
Note that the metal tab of the TDA7293 is connected to the -Ve supply, so must be insulated from the heatsink. The more care you take with the mounting arrangement, the better. While you can use a screw through an insulating bush and a piece of mica to insulate the tab, a better alternative is to use a clamping bar of some kind. How you go about this depends a lot on your home workshop tools and abilities, but one arrangement I've found highly satisfactory is a suitable length of 6.25mm square solid steel bar. This is very strong, and allows good pressure on the mica (or Kapton) for maximum heat transfer. Naturally, heatsink compound is absolutely essential.
Do not be tempted to use silicone insulation washers unless you are using the amp at very low supply voltages (no more than ±25V). Its thermal transfer characteristics are not good enough to allow the amp to produce more than about 10 - 20W of music, and even that can be taxing for silicone washers. The amp will shut down if it overheats, but that curtails one's listening enjoyment until it cools down again.